Appliance parts and terms glossary

The tall center post in a traditional top-load washer that twists back and forth to move clothes through the water. High-efficiency top-loaders replace it with a low impeller.

Found in: Washer

A small fitting, usually mounted on the sink or countertop, that keeps dirty sink water from siphoning back into the dishwasher. Some local plumbing codes require one; a clogged air gap is a common cause of a dishwasher that will not drain.

Found in: Dishwasher · Related guide →

A metal bracket fastened to the floor or wall that engages a rear leg of a freestanding or slide-in range so it cannot tip forward when weight is put on the open oven door. Ranges ship with one and it should be re-engaged whenever the range is moved.

Found in: Range

The heating element at the bottom of an electric oven cavity (sometimes hidden under the oven floor) that supplies most of the heat for baking. A failed bake element is one of the most common reasons an electric oven will not heat.

Found in: Electric oven · Related guide →

The heating element at the top of an electric oven used for broiling and, on many models, during preheat.

Found in: Electric oven

A unit of heat energy. Gas burner output is rated in BTUs per hour; a higher rating means more heat at full flame.

Found in: Gas range, Gas dryer

An electrical component that stores and releases charge to help motors and compressors start or run. Capacitors, especially in microwaves, can hold a dangerous charge even when the appliance is unplugged.

Found in: Refrigerator, Washer, Microwave

The pump, usually at the bottom rear of a refrigerator, that pressurizes refrigerant and circulates it through the sealed system. Compressor replacement is sealed-system work that requires a certified technician.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer

Coils, usually behind the kick plate or on the back of the refrigerator, where heat removed from inside the cabinet is released into the room. Dust and pet hair on the coils make the compressor work harder.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer · Related guide →

A small fan near the compressor that pulls room air across the condenser coils. If it stops, the refrigerator can run warm and the compressor may overheat.

Found in: Refrigerator

The circuit board that runs an appliance's cycles, reads its sensors, and switches motors, valves, and heaters on and off. It is often blamed for faults that turn out to be a failed sensor or wiring connection, so it should be replaced only after diagnosis.

Found in: All appliances

A tube that carries water from the defrost cycle to a drain pan under the refrigerator, where it evaporates. A clogged drain can cause ice on the back wall or water under the crisper drawers.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer · Related guide →

A heater mounted on the evaporator coil of a frost-free refrigerator that periodically melts frost. If it fails, the coil ices over, airflow stops, and the fresh-food section warms up.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer

The rubber seal between the door opening and the tub of a front-load washer. It traps water, lint, and residue, so it needs regular wiping to prevent odors and mildew.

Found in: Washer · Related guide →

The flexible seal around an appliance door. On refrigerators a leaking gasket lets warm, humid air in; on ovens a damaged gasket lets heat escape.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer, Oven, Dishwasher

A switch that tells the appliance whether the door is closed. A faulty door switch can keep a light on, stop a fan, or prevent a cycle from starting.

Found in: Refrigerator, Washer, Dryer, Microwave

An electric pump that removes water from a washer or dishwasher at the end of a cycle. Debris such as coins, glass, or bone fragments can jam it.

Found in: Washer, Dishwasher

An access cap, usually behind a small panel at the lower front of many front-load washers, that catches coins, buttons, and lint before they reach the drain pump. Cleaning it per the owner's manual can fix slow draining and some error codes.

Found in: Washer · Related guide →

A rubber belt that turns a dryer drum (or, in some washers, the tub) from the motor. A broken dryer belt usually means the motor runs but the drum does not turn.

Found in: Dryer, Washer

Wheels that support the dryer drum as it turns. Worn rollers cause a rhythmic thumping or squealing.

Found in: Dryer

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's certification program for energy-efficient products. Certified appliances must meet efficiency criteria set above the federal minimum standards.

Found in: All appliances

The yellow Federal Trade Commission label on many appliances that shows estimated yearly energy use and operating cost, so you can compare similar models.

Found in: All appliances

The cold coil inside the freezer section (usually behind a rear panel) where refrigerant absorbs heat. A fan blows air across it to cool both compartments in most frost-free refrigerators.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer

The fan that moves cold air from the evaporator coil through the freezer and into the fresh-food section. If it fails, the freezer may stay cold while the refrigerator warms.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer

The short tube that carries water from the water inlet valve into the ice maker mold. It can freeze shut if the freezer is too cold or water trickles in slowly.

Found in: Refrigerator, Ice maker · Related guide →

Mineral deposits (mainly calcium and magnesium) left by hard water. Limescale can coat heating elements, clog spray arms and valves, and leave white film on dishes.

Found in: Dishwasher, Washer, Ice maker

Low-sudsing laundry detergent formulated for high-efficiency washers that use less water. Manufacturers such as Whirlpool specify HE detergent only; regular detergent or overdosing can cause excess suds, poor rinsing, and odors.

Found in: Washer · Related guide →

A ventless dryer that uses a refrigeration-style heat pump to heat air and condense moisture out of it, recycling the same air instead of venting it outdoors.

Found in: Dryer

A safety thermostat that cuts power to a heating element or gas burner if the appliance gets too hot. Repeated trips usually point to restricted airflow, such as a clogged dryer vent.

Found in: Dryer, Oven · Related guide →

A part that glows hot enough to light the gas in a gas oven or dryer. A weak igniter may glow but not get hot enough to open the gas valve, so the oven or dryer does not heat.

Found in: Gas oven, Gas dryer

A low-profile cone or disc at the bottom of a high-efficiency top-load washer that moves clothes using less water than an agitator.

Found in: Washer

A cooking technology that uses an electromagnetic field to heat magnetic cookware directly. Pans must be magnetic: if a magnet sticks to the bottom, the pan will work.

Found in: Cooktop, Range · Related guide →

An electrically operated valve that opens to let water into the appliance. A failing valve can cause slow fills, no water, or water that keeps trickling in.

Found in: Washer, Dishwasher, Refrigerator, Ice maker

A switch and latch that confirm the lid or door is closed (and on many washers, lock it) before a cycle starts or spins. A failed lock is a common reason a washer will not start or spin.

Found in: Washer, Dishwasher

The removable mesh filter that catches lint from dryer exhaust air. NFPA advises cleaning it before or after every load; it does not replace annual vent cleaning.

Found in: Dryer · Related guide →

The tube that produces the microwaves in a microwave oven. Magnetron repairs involve high-voltage parts and are not a DIY job.

Found in: Microwave

Identifiers printed on a rating label on the appliance. The model number tells you which manual, parts, and error codes apply; the serial number usually encodes the build date and is used for warranty claims.

Found in: All appliances · Related guide →

A range hood that filters cooking air and blows it back into the kitchen instead of venting it outdoors. EPA advises an exhaust fan vented to the outdoors over gas stoves.

Found in: Range hood · Related guide →

The closed loop of compressor, condenser, evaporator, and tubing that holds a refrigerator's refrigerant. Leaks or compressor failures are sealed-system repairs that require a certified technician and are often the point where replacement makes more sense.

Found in: Refrigerator, Freezer · Related guide →

An oven cycle that heats the locked cavity to a very high temperature to burn food residue to ash. Some models also offer a lower-temperature steam-clean option.

Found in: Oven

A sensor whose electrical resistance changes with temperature so the control board can read it. A failed sensor can make an appliance run too hot, too cold, or show an error code.

Found in: Oven, Refrigerator, Dryer, Dishwasher

A rotating arm with small jets that sprays water over the dishes. Clogged jets or a blocked arm cause dishes on that rack to come out dirty.

Found in: Dishwasher

The vertical drain pipe behind a washer that the drain hose hooks into. Its height and how far the hose is inserted affect draining and siphoning; follow the washer's installation instructions.

Found in: Washer

A one-time safety fuse that blows when an appliance overheats, cutting power to a heater or the whole unit. A blown dryer thermal fuse is usually a symptom of a clogged vent, so fix the airflow too.

Found in: Dryer, Dishwasher, Microwave · Related guide →

The short section of duct that connects the back of the dryer to the wall vent. NFPA recommends rigid or flexible metal venting; thin foil or plastic duct can sag, trap lint, and crush.

Found in: Dryer · Related guide →

A replaceable cartridge that filters water for the dispenser and ice maker. Whirlpool and GE recommend replacing it about every 6 months; a clogged or badly seated filter can slow or stop ice production.

Found in: Refrigerator, Ice maker · Related guide →